For my sister in law the story was so much different then mine. She wanted a princess dress and a brand new one. She had multiple appointments to try on dresses and went to many bridal fairs. She initially ordered a dress but later decided it was not good enough and canceled on it. She was close to two month to the wedding and still nothing clinked for her. This are some of the dresses she tried:
Lekala 5212 for the skirt:
Luckily we didn't had any other pattern reset from here - just lots of other resets to improve our dress. For our next session we made a 1st muslin of the Vogue bodice in size 8 that based on the finished measurements stated should have fit OK but that was not the case. It was huge and all wrong:
City Hall dress and I just transferred the Vogue neckline to the McCall's pattern and made a 3rd muslin with the new pattern pieces:
The things were just started to look good and I was even considering an option to enter the dress into the red carpet contest but the next session brought a big step back. We realized that picking a yellowish lining was a big mistake. The skirt was a lot more full then the fitted bodice and had some extra tulle layer between the lace and the lining and was looking significantly more white then the bodice.
In the middle of this low point we also realized that the direction of the embroidery on the tulle with the skirt looked really wrinkled and ironing it didn't seemed to do anything because most of the fabric deformation was determined by self weight pulling. It was medding. But I found a solution for it! We tried a few ironing products and we found one that was significantly stiffened our lace and made it easier to iron and have a crisp proper look.This is what we used at the end:
link to youtube video.
This is the new design we had in mind at the time:
The vines were a real challenge with our fabrics. At first we tried to use 2 layers of fabric but turning them at once was to tricky. Then the tulle was easily deforming while sewing and we lost a lot of pressios time trying to find the right technique to do them:
But then we decided to sew little pearls or beads on all the spires in the bodice and we tested various models and found a perfect match for our fabric. My sister in law did all the hard work of hand sewing the beads in the wedding dress. I only done the ones on Eva's dress.
For the next session we worked on the underskirts. I removed a portion of the skirt bottom and replaced it with 2 ruffles: one tulle one lining. This one is half as full as the lace skirt.
It was time for my biggest challenge : the back closing. So I started practicing on scraps:
On the 1st try I tried to do an actual invisible zipper and have the loops. It was messy. No sharp look! And easy to get stuck. I hated it:
I also added a Petersham ribbon as a waist stay based on this very helpful tutorial by Laura Mae. It seems I have no picture of that detail though. I've always admired her impeccable insides and I was happy to finally apply some of that. I really think that the ribbon helped keep some of the weight of the skirt and make the waist pull more on the hook and eye rather than the zipper and the buttons.
This is the final fitting we did at my place :
To be honest I thought it was a home run from here. was just a tiny issue of the hem to be done and some simple hand sewing to close some seams on the inside. But it was far from done. For the hem we used the lace edge we cut separately before the rest of the dress. If is was just overlapping it to the skirt edge the seam was showing and it was not a pretty sight so I took the time of adding a support of horsehair under it and carefully cut out both side and apply both to the support by hand for all to look seamless and one piece. At this point we were at just 2-3 days to the wedding and it was a slow progress so nervous were running high and a little bit of panic. But I did it! I did made that hem look great! I also did a few hand sewed riddon channels over the shoulder to guide the bra strap and keep it hidden at all times!
I did a last minute train bustle using a metallic hook sewn at the end of the zipper for more support and only the tip of it piercing the lace out barely visible!
This is our final try out the late in the evening the day before the wedding ( after witch I went home to finish my son suit and start sewing my dress - crazy, crazy crazy) :
She also made her necklace and earrings: