Monday, August 14, 2017

Leap of faith with Vogue 9253

The new Vogue pattern 9253 has done waves this summer. I remember noticing this dress right away on other people reviews. And while admiring their creations I could not help thinking this dress would never work for me. That deep V neck was way to daring and the back zipper didn't look as attractive as the front.
 But as the summer progressed more and more amazing dresses come to life with this pattern so I could not resist the mermaid song any longer and had to try it myself. As I didn't felt this dress would work for me I decided to try an make a muslin first to see where I am standing with this neckline:
Based on the bust finished measurement I cut and sew size XS as a top.  It was quite charming. But as you can see the bust was a bit off , larger cut sizes were needed for sure and it was to tight under the bust. Also the boobs mark was really off  way higher then mine.
    I then just wanted to see what will happen if I pull the shoulders. And it was an awful idea. The V was indeed more stable but I got all kind of ugly drag lines in the front. but the back looked a bit better I think though to tight.
 One other idea I had was to sew in a bra and add a front stripe to cover for it. I think this was my favorite idea from all the ones I tried before cutting but somehow I ended up with adifferent choice in the end.
    One last thing I wanted to try was to shorten the bodice of the marked line and try a different cut in the back. Also changed the front pleat to gathers in one last muslin:
Some of the front drag lines are because I closed the back to tight  but the new back was gaping badly and realized i need to eliminated the back dart before doing any change to the back. And once again it become obvious that the bodice was not shaped on my bust and that I was the one trying to fit its shape.
   So after letting it all stew in for a few days I decided to go the hard way and finally do something I been dreaming of doing for a long long time. Alter the fit... I did all this on a paper piece and then cut directly on my good fabric. I was not going to do a new muslin.
   I started in the back. I first eliminated the dart then cut out some of it. I decided to go the other way with my cutout then my white muslin. Keeping the shoulders intact seamed important. I then drfted a facing pieces for my new back:
Then it come the hard part. I 1st marked a new boob 3,5 cm lower and 1.5 cm to the side. I then transformed the pleats into darts and eliminated them. created a new dart that was ending in my new boob mark and was smaller the theirs. Then transformed that dart into a pleat. To do all this I was following the instructions from Claire Wrap Dress sew along on pattern review. I loved that dress and the gaping was no issue with it so I decided to go further transforming this dress to be more like Claire. So I cut off a band in the front and added a small bust curve in the front that Catina was saying it helps with both shaping and gaping and then used piping and interface on the front bands.
I was simply amazed how much different the dress felt with this changes. It was not actually shaped on my bust and not the other way around. It was a magic moment. All the feeling I had trying this altered dress on it remind me of Erica Hahn glasses speech on Gray's Anatomy...
   The sleeves seemed to big and boxy so I thought that maybe cutting them out would look better for my dress. I am still trying to decide if this is fine or I should cut them even shorter.
   I went with a smaller back tie belt. While I think the front really benefits from the belt definition I am not sure the back does as well... I am thinking of opening the side seams and keep only the front part of the belt and do something else with the back or just leave it simple....
   But even if the dress was going well it took me quite some time to get it to the finish line. The last thing I had to do was a piped tie.
The good part when I finally finished it was that my husband was in a really good mood and agreed to go take pictures right away even if I suggested a park...

Thursday, August 10, 2017

Sewing for my mothers - Butterick 6457 for my mom and Lekala 4177+5155 for my mother in law

My mother in law is one one my of bigger supporter when it comes to sewing. I love her for that. She also has a really hard time finding clothes that fit her. She is tall with really long legs and broad shoulders. It is one of my personal goals to try and make an outfit for her each year for her birthday that is in early June. I started this around that time but I only finished it last night. I thought that if I use the custom fit Lekala it will be a walk in the park... I picked up 4177 that I already made it successful for myself a few times:
 And a new one 5155 pants that were supposed to be quite fitted and high waist....

After cutting the pieces and started to put them together I really didn't thought I can save anything from it. The pants are absolutely huge I have no idea what happens I never got so far off with Lekala before.. and the to seemed to short. I didn't even what to mention the project for a while to my mother in law. Then about 2 weeks ago when I had a bit more free time I thought that maybe I can save something out of it and got them with me when we met and had her try it on.
   Luckily the top was not that short and after using the smallest possible seam allowance at the shoulder and waist I got  a decent top out of it.
   The pants on the other hand were really off. They were so large that she could easily fit in them without any zipper. were way to long on either side so I took  quite a few centimeters out of the waist and then put and elastic waistband there. Then shortened a few times down to finally get them to a point where my mother in law felt comfortable walking in them without tripping.
    This was supposed to be a test drive for the pattern with an option to make a new set if all went well. I think I saved it quite nicely in a jumpsuit look. But the pants pattern is long gone; trashed right away. The top might worth a 2nd version but I am not really all that impressed with this one.
 And since I worked on my mother in law outfit and my mom was helping me get away to sew it I thought it would be a nice time to make something for her as well.
She really liked my last cold shoulder tunic and I thought it might be a good fit for her too. I had to show her half my stash before she picked her fabric. None of my recent purchases worked for her and in the end she choose one quite difficult fabric I had my my stash for more then 3 years and was going nowhere with me. So I was quite happy to have it gone. I was a border print chiffon fabric and I think it looks quite nice on her. I had cut my Butterick 6457 directly on size 6 for me so I had to add some extra width for her by myself. I am not sure if I done it right.  My size 6 was fitting her decently but the arms were to tight so I had to do the changes.
I added quite some extra length in my mom's top as well. I think this one definitely benefits from it and I adjusted the gathers to cover more on the back then intended.
I think they both were happy with their new garments or if they weren't they didn't dare say it :).