And I was just aimlessly browsing patterns I come across of something magnificent. Koos van den Akker coat featured by Vogue 1277.
Communing With Fabric blog and getting a glimpse of it. And then a little while later seeing Margy version inspired by this. Both stuck in my head stored carefully in I wish I would do something like that and look that stylish.
And since the Sewing bee spirit is about pushing your boundaries and challenging yourself more then anything else this seemed like the perfect choice. After making this decision it is was a nervous next day confirming the pattern was in stock at a local re-seller and the delivery will be made as soon as possible. And the 2 days of hunting the local stores for the perfect fabric combos ( before and after work ; waiting at their door in the morning before they were even open and when they ask me what are you looking for answering with " I really don't know. I will know when I see it"; I am sure some of those ladies thought I have lost it ... - but who cares - I was following my dream - such a great feeling).
I first wanted to make it in wool but most of the fabrics I was thinking were not in stock yet. After the initial scan of the possibilities I decided to go with a dressy version in luxurious fabrics.
My base color would be black and the second was a choice between gold or red. This is how my sewing room floor looked like after shopping and stash digging.
JACKET: Red textured brocade with a bit of black. This was my favorite fabric of all. The photos don't do it justice. So I centered the coat to work around it.
CONTRAST 7: This is a lighter special occasion fabric with stripes pattern and 3D textures. It was a real torture making bias stripes and self piping out of it but I love the look of it so much.
Those really long curves with just 1 or 2 notches on bias pieces are really hard to get right. I had to unpick the 1st one 2 times. After that I got smarter and basted everything by hand before sewing. I think it got things better. But using this kind of fabrics meant I could not do any direct ironing on them and it was a real pain.
Then doing bias stripes from unraveling fabric was extremely courageous. I found double fusible band to be of great help to stabilize the stripes:
And here I got to:
I first wanted this to be a total surprise but could not resist the temptation and I wanted to tell mom to bring some black pants so I told her that something will be waiting on dressform for her and she needed black pants for it. Her first question was if it had many "things in it" and if it is done "my usual way".... Oops!.. I said yes! And she said an half hearted OK! Good thing she was not around for the construction. I don't think she would approved. But I think she really likes the end result! And specially the way it looks on her. I caught her looking at the photos I took over my shoulder! She actually asked : "Is that me?" me :"Yes" her: "I look good!" me: "Yes you do look more then good!". I absolutely love it on her.
The colors are all over the place but some photos were done in the evening and some in the morning and I was playing with the settings trying to make my fabric details show.
And a few close ups. Side piping & topstitching: