Thursday, June 30, 2016

Lady in white - O'Jolly fest - McCall's 6844 cardigan and Lekala 5687 skirt

 For more then half an year I keep thinking on what to sew from the beautiful fabric I received from O!Jolly! for Eva's green coat 1st prize winner on PR. I had two types of fabric that match perfectly (don't you love when that happens? - though this time it was no accident): a natural white cotton sweater knit and creamy white cotton 2x2 rib. I am loving this fabric and it has a special meaning to me so I really wanted something pretty. After tons of ideas I thought that I can do no better then pick my favorite pattern after all. So here it comes the nr 8 ( I think ... I am starting to lose count...) McCall's cardigan:
   This is my 8th ( I think I am starting to lose count...) run at this pattern and I already know what I like and want. It is still interesting how different each fabric is. I never had wavy seams at this pattern before. And now it was a real struggle to flatten a bit some seams.
   It is view C in the back and view A in the front.
   I also took an inch at the shoulders ( too wide ... ). I should really redraft my pattern pieces for this instead of altering it each item after I cut it.
   I added a cut to the sleeves and cuffs. I also tried lettuce hem and lace trim but it didn't look that well so I settled for ribbed cuffs. 
   I shaped the collar to be round in the front low part. I think it looks better like that and I don't have to worry if the lines meet nicely when is folded in all postures. The collar is just 1 piece not doubled. I am not sure if it is just the hot weather here but having the collar doubled resulted in 4 layers of fabric here and there and that seamed like to much for me.
   I tried all kind of hems and lace trims and ... in the end I just gave it a flat serge finish that by my standards almost is unfinished but I tied that all and this one looked best in my eyes. It is hardy noticeable with the threads in the right shades and the fabric is flat and not bulking with it. I may still change my mind and change it at some point but I think I will try to wear it like that 1st.
I added patch pockets:
   But the cardigan was not enough. I wanted  a full outfit. And for the skirt a few factors made me decide: I had 3 new skirts patterns from Lekala with the intention to pick one for the skirt contest. But I never managed to do anything in the time frame and Alpine Queen post yet another wonderful skirt review that is almost the same pattern as one of my 3 skirts so ... here Lekala 5687 takes a turn for the spotlight:
   I like the shape of it. I like the puzzle it creates. It is playful and flowing in my eyes. I also like more this closing option because I hate to sew invisible zippers: no mater how careful I am or how many times I try is hardly ever good looking and some fabrics are almost impossible to pair with an invisible zipper.
   This was 1st attempt and the fabric is quite far from what this pattern was designed for. I took a lot of liberties to reduce the number of seams on this fabric so if 2 joining panels were in the same fabric I skipped the seam and cut them together. That resulting in skipping the front, the back and the side insert seams.
   I am happy I took a little extra time to match the vertical stripes on center front and middle front and on center back and middle back pieces. It is not a perfect match but it is good enough to not get attention on it and give a more fluid look to the skirt.
   I also have an elastic waistband that ended up being sewed directly on the skirt. After 2 attempts to add a waistband on both fabrics I decided it is like bulky like this and it will never show with the tops I usually wear.
   The lining is a beautiful eyelet batiste. I love it. It is so lightweight I hardly know is there and is so much more pleasant to the skin the regular lining fabrics.
   I was very lucky to have a bit of rain yesterday and get a small break from the really hot hot weather so I could get pictures outside instead of next to the air conditioning:

Friday, June 17, 2016

Refashion men shirt - lekala 4109

Refashion men shirt

 I love refashion projects. I am always amazed by some people ingenuity and the transformations. So I always make plans to try it myself. When my husband decided to give up this shirt I wanted to work on it right away. I love its fabric and the pockets are so nicely done. I used  Lekala 4109 that I wanted to make in woven anyway. I reworked the shoulder line this time before adding sleeves and it is much better.
   I used bias cut for front yoke and back panels and I love the effect from that. The downside was that I didn't have enough fabric left to cut the back yoke so I had to improvise. I had a long time thinking what do  for that. No other fabric seemed to work and I didn't want to do anything just to finish it. In the end I created a patchwork from the small craps left and I think it was the best decision.
   Maybe the pocket placement ended up a bit weird. It may have been better if I made the shirt shorter and I may not had to struggle so much for the fabric... but after all this is my 1st attempt to refashion a men shirt and I am proud of the result.
  It is a comfortable shirt and quite unique. And I will do better next time. this is definitely a fun project to tackle.
I used some floral print cotton to double the front and back yoke for a nice inside:
   We were on a small trip in the weekend and both kids and myself had shirts sewed by myself. Isn't it nice when that happens?
Andrei's shirt from from the mini wardrobe I did for him last summer. One of my favorite items ever made.
   Eva's is from this year but I didn't had a chance to review it yet so will do it now. It is an Ottobre design of course issue 03/2015 design #8. I love that it had girlish lines and the piping is such a nice effect but I doesn't have facings and that's not nice. If I will do it again I will add them, for sure. It is a summer shirt so you want it to be able to wear it unbuttoned without being ashamed of your seams ...